How To... Choose The Perfect Foundation: Part One

Source: Alex Beauchesne

One of the most frequently asked questions I receive from clients is how to find the right foundation for me?! With a seemingly endless array of shades and formulas on the market, it's no wonder that choosing the best base for you can be a minefield! Get it right and no one will notice you're wearing it, get it wrong and you can end up with a clown-like mask and telltale lines.

Foundation is one of the most important items of make-up you will purchase, it evens out the tone of your skin making it appear flawless and giving it a healthy luminosity. It is worth taking the time to choose your perfect formulation. By using the correct base, you will transform the make-up you apply on top; giving your other products something to 'stick to' ensures its longevity. You can't expect your colour cosmetics to look immaculate if you have a less-than perfect base.

This staple product can even act as a protective shield to help save your skin from the tough elements you face day-to-day. Sun, wind, heating, air conditioning and other environmental factors can damage your skin, but a good foundation can aid in preventing such damage.

In a quest to simplify the foundation buying process, I have broken this article into two parts. Here I will explore the different types of foundation that are available and which ones are right for you. In part two, I will offer tips on how to shop for foundation and explain how you can finally choose your perfect shade!

How to choose the type of foundation for you

Before you can start your search for your perfect foundation, you need to think about which type works for you. With such a variety of high-tech ingredients, finishes and textures, knowing where to start can be a little overwhelming. You need to think about the formula you want, the coverage you need and the finish you require. This can be decided by factors such as your skin type and skin concerns as well as your personal preference and lifestyle.

Formula

Foundation comes in various textures, besides the standard liquid and powder versions; you also have the choice of cream, mousse, stick and cream-to-powder. The best way to select the one for you is to choose a formula based on your skin type.

Oily

Make sure you select a foundation that is oil-free. This will help keep shine at bay by creating a matte-textured finish. This formula usually contains no oils that can clog pores such as lanolin or mineral oils. Oily skins benefit particularly from using a Primer, this will help control shine and prevent make-up from sliding.

• Liquid – oil-free, oil-absorbing, water-based formula
• Cream-to-Powder – creamy compact that dries to a powder finish. Offers lasting coverage without being too heavy
• Powder – helps to mattify the skin without feeling heavy or greasy  

Try: Nars Sheer Matte, Revlon Colourstay, Urban Decay Surreal Skin Compact, MAC Studio Fix Powder

Dry / Mature

If you have dry skin, you need a foundation that contains moisturisers. Dry skin can look flat so try select a hydrating foundation with an oil base. This will help to lock in moisture and give a radiant, dewy glow.

As we get older our skin tends to dry out, a creamy foundation will hydrate the skin, prevent cakiness and hide wrinkles. The latest bases for older skins are anti-ageing moisturisers and foundations rolled into one cream.

• Liquid – moisturising, oil-based formula
• Stick – offers high level of coverage
• Cream - apply with a damp sponge to control the coverage and prevent it looking heavy
• Tinted Moisturiser – easier to apply and great for a no-makeup look
• Mousse – good for mature skin as it doesn’t sit in fine lines

Try: Laura Mercier Moisture Supreme, Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick, Laura Mercier Creme Smooth, Nars Tinted Moisturiser, Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse

Combination

If you have combination skin (such as dry skin with an oily T-zone) you will need a foundation that prevents shine whilst preventing dehydrated areas from drying out.

• Cream-to-powder – locks in moisture while controlling shine
• Liquid – oil-free

Try: MAC Studio Tech, Clinique Superbalanced Make-up

Normal

Normal skin can wear a whole range of foundation formulas, from powder to cream to liquid, depending on the type of coverage and finish you prefer.

Try: Chanel Perfection Lumiere

Sensitive

If you have sensitive skin that's prone to flare-ups, make sure you opt for a fragrance-free, oil-free, non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic foundation.

• Powder – doesn't need as many preservatives as it doesn’t contain water, which are often the culprits when it comes to triggering irritation on the skin
• Mineral - contains no additives and in powder form, it needs no synthetic preservatives. Is non-comedogenic, meaning that it won't clog your pores

Try: Clinique Almost Powder Make-up, Bare Minerals Foundation

Coverage

Next, you will need to consider how much coverage you require. If you have good skin, but want to even out a few ruddy areas, consider a sheer coverage. For an uneven skin tone or blemishes, consider a medium coverage foundation.

You will also want to take factors such as your lifestyle and the occasion into consideration. For example, if you are going to the shops and simply want to cover a little redness, you could choose a tinted moisturiser. If, however, you are going to an important event and you want to achieve a polished look, you should wear a foundation that offers more coverage.

Sheer

Suits clear skins or those with only very slight pigmentation or subtle blemishes. They smooth out the skin tone and texture whilst allowing your real skin, including freckles and beauty marks, to be visible.  Almost undetectable on the skin due to the translucent pigments, they are forgiving, mistake proof foundation.

Tinted moisturisers and some powders (applied with a brush) are ideal if you are not a “makeup person” and require a light feel to your make-up. Try: Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturiser

Medium

Covers around 60% of blemishes and uneven skin tones. These foundations are thicker in consistency and provide more coverage for minor skin discolourations. Liquid, Mousse and Cream-to-Powder formulations all offer a medium coverage. Powders applied with a sponge and Mineral's applied with a brush also offer a medium finish.

Look out for formulations with buildable coverage too, these give you more control enabling you to build up more coverage as and when you need it. 

Full

Sometimes needed for serious skin issues such as scars, birthmarks and acne. I personally would never use these all over the skin as they can result in a fake, mask-like finish that actually draws more attention to your skin.

Apply creams or stick foundations sparingly and use a heavy-duty concealer in areas where more coverage is required. Try: Keromask Camouflage Cream, Vichy Dermablend

 

Source: fashionista.com

 

Finish

The finish is the amount of sheen a foundation leaves on your skin. There are three types: matte, semi-matte and illuminating.

Matte – Typically for those with oily skin, matte foundations absorb oil, leaving your skin with a shine-free, powdery finish. It can look a little dated and flat however, lacking the luminous glow of real skin. Only use this finish if you have severe oil-control problems.

Try: Clarins Ever Matt

Semi-matte – Has a more velvety, satin-finish. Most foundations are semi-matte and they work on almost anyone. These give the most natural looking finish with a much softer glow.

Try: Make Up Forever HD

Illuminating – Contain three-dimensional pigments which bounce light off the face giving a luminous glow. Fantastic for dull skins that lack radiance i.e. dry, mature or sallow. Illuminating foundations are infused with finely ground light-reflective particles (such as mica and crushed pearls) which give a soft-focus effect to the skin, diffusing the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

Try: Chanel Pro Lumiere

I hope this helps to de-mystify the many foundation types, if you have any questions, please leave a comment below. Now that you are aware of the types of foundation that are suitable for you, you're ready to select your shade...

Look out for Part Two: How To Find Your Perfect Match.